Hello, all,

I replaced the right front wheel bearing on my '07 TCH this weekend. It all went back together fine, but now the display says "Check VSC System", and the Brake, Warning, ABS, Traction Control, and an icon that I think is brakes as well, lights are all on.

I believe everything went back together, but there are a few things that I think may have contributed to this. I didn't get the job done in one day, because I didn't realize until too late in the evening that I wasn't going to be able to do this without a machine shop (didn't realize the bearing would need to be pressed out and back in). So I had to move the car with one wheel off, on the jack. To do so, I had to turn the car on to unlock the steering column and put it in neutral. In the process, I stepped on the brake with no disk between the caliper - not a big deal, as I used a clamp to compress the cylinder, and put a block of wood in it, the same thickness as the disk, to keep from accidentally repeating the mistake. Also, possibly having the shaft rotate, while the car was on, in neutral, with the speed sensor not sensing rotation, since the hub assembly was off. I'm wondering if this is what caused the error condition.

I found this site: http://answers.edmunds.com/question-...mry-31495.aspx which has a link to this document: http://www.toyotapartsandservice.com...SSN_Spring.pdf which describes resetting the lights. The only question I have, is since the person who wrote the post who said it worked has a non-hybrid, and his Camry is a 2002, is the article correct with pin numbers, or is his suggestion of using pin 14 where the article calls for pin 12 correct?

I'm working right now on the assumption that an error condition could cause the light to turn on, and the ABS/Traction (VSC) system to turn off, and that if I reset the system, then if the lights stay off, then it was only a temporary error-causing condition (probably the one I described above). If the lights come back on, then obviously I have to dig deeper, and find what I did wrong. Of course, if I'm wrong, and the clearing of the error-causing condition would cause the error to clear on the display, then resetting the system shouldn't hurt any, because the error should just reappear anyway.

I have discovered that the lights being on does indeed mean that the ABS is off, as I was slowing for a stop, and squealed one tire, with minimal pressure (the brakes do feel different than they did before). What started all this is that I've had a low growl in the right front when curving to the left, and while it has not gotten any worse, I need new tires, which I'll be getting in the next month or so. The last time I rotated them, I noticed they are not wearing evenly, so I want to get an alignment, and since I suspect a bearing problem, I don't want to do an alignment prior to replacing the bearing. So I figured I'd replace the bearing now, then next month I'll be putting tires and an alignment on it.

Anyway, if anyone has information about the reset process I linked to above, or if there is one that is specific to the hybrid (which I would prefer, if I could find one), I'd appreciate hearing from you. And yes, I've used Google. Or Bing, actually, which I prefer. There's a lot of garbage out there to filter through either way, so I thought I'd check here.

Oh - and I'm at work right now, trying to gather as much info as I can so that when I get home from work, I can be as efficient as possible with getting to the root of the problem and getting it fixed.

Thanks.

 

Not experienced enough with the hybrid brake system to give you any detailed advice. However a couple of things to think about. There should be some wiring in the disk area for the ABS speed pick up. Could you have damaged that wiring or unplugged a connector? When you stepped on the brake without the disk in place you would have unbalanced the brake system. I suspect there is enough logic in place to detect that and set the alarms. However I am not sure what it takes to reset the brake system physically and electronically.

 

Rich, are you anywhere near the NW corner of GA (Chattanooga) area? If you are, I can reset it for you. Before you do that however, make sure the wheel speed sensor is plugged in good and tight. It goes without saying that you should not turn the car on and try to move it without a rotor in the caliper.....but I would probably have hit the brake also.

Are you sure that the ABS system is OK and the the caliper pistons didn't come out of the bore? If they didn't, the ABS error warning needs to be cleared using a good scanner. Something like a factory tool, upper end Snap-on, Matco, etc.

 

Thanks guys, for the things to think about. No, I didn't damage anything, and no, the cylinder didn't come out of the caliper. I actually read on one of the links below that several people had a similar issue when changing brake pads, and it ended up being that thread on ToyotaNation that helped me solve the problem.

Rather than retype everything, I'll just paste what I posted there, for you guys. But I especially want to thank you, GeorgiaHybrid, for the offer to reset it for me. I ended up doing it with a paper clip. I'm in the Gainesville area, so a couple hours from Chattanooga, but I do appreciate the offer.

Anyway, here's what got it for me:

Ok.... The procedure in the pdf above got me an error of "DIAG VSC 45", but it didn't reset anything. But, with that code, I found a page that told me that it has to do with the deceleration sensor circuit. From there, I really didn't find anything, but more searching on that diag code brought me to this page, which has a couple of procedures that are for brake and airbag reset.

Well, somehow, between trying both of the procedures, and combining them, and using TC in place of TS, but also trying TS, somehow, I was able to get the codes reset.

Now my car drives just like it should. In my post above, I mentioned that the brake pedal felt different. Well, the second link here says somewhere that the regen braking doesn't work when the ABS doesn't work. Well, now it feels back to normal, regen braking and all. All the warning lights are out,and it "feels" right, so I don't expect any further problems.

One thing I did note, and will make sure to document these procedures for this reason - several posts that I saw said that people ended up with the problem described in the second link, which is simliar but not the same as mine, after changing their brake pads.

BTW - hybrid technology is sure nice. 79,000+ miles, and the brake pads look like they're practically new.

 

Good to hear you got it reset. Is the noise problem fixed too? Often a grinding vibration when turning is caused by a worn CV joint, which in turn is caused by a failed CV joint boot.

 

Ron,

Most of the time a worn CV joint will make a "clicking" sound while doing a low speed turn. A wheel bearing will make a grinding noise that usually gets louder as your speed increases.

 

Ya know, I was so stressed about driving it yesterday with the brakes feeling different, and all those lights on, that I didn't even notice if the noise was still there. Today I'll be a lot more relaxed driving to work, so I'll pay attention to that.

I've changed out the CV shaft in a couple of the Chrysler product mini-vans I've owned, and at least one Honda that I can think of, so I'm familiar with how a CV shaft feels / sounds when it goes, so while it *could* be that, I *really* doubt it. I do appreciate all the input, though - no idea is a bad one, because sometimes the problem is something overlooked.

I'll try to post again after I get to work. Who knows... The noise could also be my tires, which need to be replaced. I'd kind of ruled that out, because it stayed after rotation, but it wouldn't be unheard of. I wouldn't describe it as a grinding sound, but a low "growl". It was there for a month or more of me pointing it out before I could even get my wife to notice the difference in sound between driving straight and driving on a curve to the left. Sadly, I won't be able to afford tires until next month, because I want to put *good* tires on it, and get the most of the "hybrid-ness" of the car, which bought used, had cheap tires on it, so I think I can get better mileage out of good tires with low rolling resistance.

 

I usually run my CV joints until they fail, so I know what it sounds like. The noise is almost always associated with a turn. Wheel bearings usually make noise all the time. The definitive check is the condition of the rubber boot. I've never had a CV joint fail that did not also have a failed (cracked) boot which lets water and dirt into the joint. If the boot is OK, then I would rule out the CV joint as a likely cause.

 

On the CV - my boots are good, and this noise isn't associated with a "turn" but with any curve at all to the left - even going down the road at 55mph and on a curve that has the steering wheel just a few degrees from centered. And I, like you, Ron, have run CV joints until, well, ok, not QUITE until they failed, but until it was about as close as I was willing to go without expecting to get stranded at any moment.

On the noise - my route to work isn't the most conducive to listening for this noise, but in those few places where there is a curve without a lot of road noise, I did not notice the noise, so it would appear that it was indeed the bearing. I will pay close attention over the next few days to be sure, but I think I have it licked.

 

1. wow. all this on a hunch that it was bearing? you did bearing check, did you?
2. bad bearing does crunchy noise. similar to what georgia describes. dry, crunchy noise. ay high speeds it starts high pitch howl. pitch changes with speed
3. regenerative braking is basically electromagnetic adherence between MG and output shaft. has basically nothing to do with hydraulic brakes and pedal feel
4. I am most positive you either had ABS sensor disconnected or "lost connection" and it threw codes. or, one of the sensors didn't like your most peculiar mode of transporting TCH and threw a fit
5. how many times did you have vehicle on and off during your reset procedures? 3 consecutive start up/shut down might as well have done it for you
what can I say. very creative, actually. speaking of how you moved the car. not sure, why you didn't have entire front raised and rolled on jack+rear wheels, but hey - you've done well. necessity is mother of invention, right?
hope you will not hear "growl" any more.