I own a 2015 Accord Hybrid with 86k miles on it. I've had it for 6 months and I really enjoy driving it, but I have had a few problems in the past month that seem related.

The first thing that happened was I tried to start the vehicle by holding my foot on the brake and pressing the start button, but the display on the dashboard turned off and it seemed that the car lost power. I opened the door and closed it before trying again and it started right up, no problem. The radio displayed that it lost power and it needed to be unlocked by holding the power button for 2 seconds or entering the code.

I've also had instances where the doors/trunk would not open when I touched the door handle or pressed the trunk hatch release button on the outside of the vehicle. I tried to unlock the car with the key fob buttons, but that did not work either, even though the light on the fob was visible when I used it. I had to use the physical key inside of the fob to open the driver's side door. When I did that, the display on the dash turned on and the car started up with no issue.

I've also had a combination of the two problems stated, where I could not get into the vehicle at first, I used the physical key to get into the car, I tried to start it but the display and everything turned off, I open the door and close it a few times and eventually the car starts. These problems make up about 50 percent of the time that I use the car.

Anyone else deal with this problem? What was the fix? Any ideas? Thanks.

 

Here's an update:

It's been over a year and the problem has still persisted, but not consistently. I believe I went all winter without it happening at all. This spring/summer I've had it happen more frequently, but I found out a trick to jumpstart the system when I can't get anything to turn on.

In trying to troubleshoot the issue, I attempted to measure the voltage across the 12V battery while the car was unresponsive. As I placed the leads of a multimeter on the battery terminals, the car made a "click" sound (I presume from a relay) and the car was responsive. The multimeter read ~3V at first and then jumped up to 12.5V after hearing the "click". I've done this multiple times when the car has been unresponsive and it has "jumpstarted" the car to work normally every time. I'm planning to get the 12V battery tested to see if it is in good health.