In series or parallel? It matters.

Again, if you had no illumination on the bulb at 130V, you had a connection problem of some kind.

 

I'm not sure of the designation, but both bulbs shared one socket. The whole thing looked a bit cheap, so I went out and bought another socket and wired it next to the first socket.
One socket is rated for 660w at 250v; the other 660w at 125v.
Using two brand-new 60 watt bulbs, I found that the discharge stops at around 140 volts. I also tried 4 other bulbs.
I rechecked all the cables, and even made a new discharge cable from a tested, working cord (like the first one), and used ring terminals for the cable ends (like the first one). The discharge cables are made from indoor extension cords rated at 125 volts.
Could there be something within preventing the pack from discharging down to 60 volts?
Is it possible that the one known suspect stick is what's causing the discharge attempt to halt?
So far, I've done two full charges, and two discharges: one with 1 bulb and one with 2 bulbs, and they both stop around 140.
I've run a fan on the pack during the cycles, so they haven't overheated. The garage has been chilly the whole time.
Right now, the battery is sitting at about 110 volts.
Thinking that the battery in the multimeter may be going bad, I put a new one in and got the same readings. It's a basic version, but it's worked in the past. A friend is coming by in a few days with a better one to use.
Seems strange that the battery takes a full grid charge, but has trouble discharging.

 

When the bulbs go out, have you checked them for heat? If they are 120V bulbs with two in series, then they may indeed go dim at a higher voltage. I wasn't convinced you were using two bulbs in series, so I didn't consider that may be the case.

To confirm, these are incandescent or halogen bulbs, correct?

With the pack sitting at 110V, what do the 20 sticks measure?

 

I haven't been able to catch them right after they've gone out.
The bulbs are incandescent.
I haven't re-opened the pack to measure the sticks again, as I was curious about the halted discharge. I'll re-measure the sticks today and post the results.

 

Are you measuring voltage while the bulbs are connected and discharging, or are you disconnecting them?

It's also possible the voltage is rebounding between the time you remove the load and the measurement.

 

Sorry for the delay; my friend loaned me a much better reader. I took pack readings while the lights were connected and discharging, and also disconnected.
These are the current stick readings.
3rd round
1. 6.5
2. 6.2
3. 5.8
4. 5.8
5. 5.7
6. 5.8
7. 6.0
8. 6.4
9. 5.9
10. 5.5
11. 5.4
12. 5.5
13. 5.3
14. 4.7 <--this is the one that has given low readings prior
15. 6.6
16. 5.6
17. 5.1
18. 5.2
19. 5.3
20. 5.4

 

Are the bulb(s) illuminated? if not, are they warm?

 

The bulbs do light up when I plug in the discharger, then dim and go out after a few seconds. They are a bit warm.
I can leave the pack alone for an hour or so, then plug the lights back in, and they'll light up then dim again in a few seconds.
I've rechecked all the connections in the pack when I reassembled it.
I'm curious why I'm unable to complete a discharge to the suggested voltage.
Even though I most likely need to buy a pack, I'd feel better knowing that I was able to do the complete discharge/recharge cycles before.
Then I wouldn't think, "I wonder if that would have saved me from buying a new pack."

 

Can you measure the pack's voltage after the bulbs have dimmed and are still connected to the pack?

I suspect the voltage is dropping very low, you disconnect the bulbs and tha pack voltage rises.

 

I had to reinstall the battery pack and move the car.
Of course, I got the CE and IMA lights.
The battery health gauge was at zero bars, so I drove it around the neighborhood to see how quick it'd change.
Within 3 miles, it jumped to showing a full charge.
As I was near an auto parts store, I asked them to hook up their scanner.
When I restarted, the IMA light went off, but CE stayed on.
This time, tho, I got the usual P1600, but no P1433; instead P1570, or "(MOD01) Battery module individual voltage problem."
On the short drive home, the health gauge leveled off to about 25%.
This morning I measured the pack voltage at 162.5 volts and then hooked up the discharge bulbs.
Will post results when available.