C0561 Antilock brakes code, this code will not clear and says something about the serial number not matching

Cleared
No crank,
No codes set.

After jump assist aborts
No codes
Dic displays service hybrid system, service battery charging system.
But the system can't find codes except the c0561

​​​​​​

 

just to throw in, I have seen posts about jump assist setting the crash code. that will keep the truck from starting, and I'm not 100% sure it shows up from a normal obd2 scanner. so digg into the modules and find the reset crash sensor or whatever they called it.

and every cover has to be on. if the cover over the under hood inverter is off, it won't start. as well as the metal cover over the wires running to the hybrid pack. there's literally a safety on everything.

one guy had a post that went on for months here. turned out they has replaced the motor just before he got it, and serviced the ac using the wrong oil. it was failing the isolation test but ran for months before it happened. once he pulled the power wires off the ac, it started. but as Keith said, from I've seen on mine and others posts. a really really bad hybrid battery will still atleast start the engine. it will drive like crap and cause all kinds of other issues, but as long as you've got some charge in it. it should crank it over. the 12v battery thou, it is kinda picky about thou. so you might charge that and load test it. I've checked mine and just the key foward one click, (so I could turn the wheel doing brakes) not even the on position there's a 10amp load on the 12v battery and it will kill a good battery in a pretty short time. if you've been messing with trying to get it running for a while. it's probably been run down a few times and hurt. agm is said to be better but a lead acid hates being run down to flat.

oh and check the ground from 12v to block. it's common on all this generation to cause issues. there's tons of posts in the other boards of non hybrid ones having issues, and a lot of times it's that block ground, front drivers side. also the fuse box itself, if you pull up on the 2 handles, the whole top comes off and you can check for corrosion under it. that's pretty common for Gremlins.

 

looks like there's a sub code to that code that will help a lot in pointing in the right direction.


oh, and do you have the air pump auto level option? if so there's a module in the back up where the space tire goes. it seems to be very common for that to be the point of CAN issues. there's a bunch of youtube stuff about chasing down the can issues from there. they will even
cause a no start on the non hybrid ones

 

Thanks for your Reply! I'll check those things. The 12V battery is an AGM and is less than a week old and I have been putting a charger back on it after I mess with for extended periods of time. It's strange that you mentioned the AC when I got it one of the sensors on the AC had been disconnected and I hooked that back up. I have the top of the battery pack off but the wire cover is back on because it was throwing codes when that was off. I don't think it has load leveling I looked at the shocks the other day and didn't see any lines going to them and they looked like regular shocks, but the ALC/COMP fusible J-CASE(which I believe to be for the load leveling system) was blown when I got the truck and I haven't replaced that yet.

I have tried the 300V isolation test and it fails and tells me the hybrid contactor must be closed (I think) I will double check that tonight. I can command the three contactors to close one at a time with the solus and they all click.

 

Do you have at least one of the deck bolts securing the battery to the deck? The case needs a good contact to chassis ground.

 

Yes the battery case is still fully bolted to the floor, I just have the lid off, I put the safety plate back over the cables on the right side and the orange disconnect back on of course. Does the lid need to be back on? I can take a picture.

 

I don't know anything about powering it up without a lid. that's well above me haha. like the ecm has rubber grommet mounts on the bottom bolts to case and metal to metal case bolts to the lid. I don't know that that means anything thou.

what's the fuse number on that j case fuse. that seems odd. probably unrelated, but I'll try to look at the diagram and see if it's being used for anything.

as for the ac, I am no expert, but it's common to disconnect things on the side that leaves the wires dead. so you'd default to unbolting the power wires at the inverter instead of say the compressor. if that's possible anyways. that way you don't have 3 phase of 300v hanging in the wind.

it does sound like an isolation issue. but I'm not sure the best way up search that out.

 

won't let me upload a zip file for some reason.

I have a diagnostic walk thru if you'd like to see it. pm me an email or something and I can try to send it.


Keith, these might be good for a sticky in this forum if that's allowed. since there's a lot of no start posts. it's a walk thru of enabling the high voltage side.

 

With a newer scanner we found code U01888, whatever that is.
We disconnected the AC from the inverter and reinstalled the covers but didn't have an results from that.

We rechecked the battery pack and while it is still at a calculated 330V, module 11 is at 0 volts. Would that be enough to keep it from passing the isolation test and preventing the signal to the starter.

Thanks all
Matt

 

try this zip for the code.


hmm, Keith would know better, but count from the fan side to the #11 module. 2 cells per module. I think 11 might be the one that has wires on the back that connect to the orange safety plug to complete the loop? atleast that's 11 of my truck. but I have a little different setup.

zero voltage sounds weird, I'd guess that even a really dead cell would give a little bit of voltage at zero load?