They were all showing around 17V
I was using a lpc 150-350 at 120V input.
I'm kind of at a loss now and don't know what to try next.

 

Ah... that's different than the 100-350. That's a 180-305VAC unit capable of 430V. I don't know how it performs at 120V, but I'm pretty sure it gets you the voltage you need.

How long did you charge it?
Did you provide cooling during charge?

 

The lpc 150-350 brought the voltage up from 269 to 338 in about an hour and held there. I charged it from 1230 to 5 and the batteries never got warm so I didn't have any cooling on it. I checked and would have stopped the charge if they had gotten very warm until I figured it what to do next. . Messed with it to try and get it to start but it refused and was still showing 60% but holding voltage. I unplugged it and let it sit several hours to see if it would lose voltage and it didn't. Then I plugged it in over night and it was still at 60% this morning when I unplugged it. When I got home at 4 the cells were all around 16.7 volts same state of charge.

Before all this I tried to initiate a jump assist but that aborts every time. I haven't tried the jump assist whole hooked to a running vehicle yet though just my battery charger.

If there's any other data I should be looking at let me know I can pull anything up on this scanner I'm just not sure what I'm looking for.

Does the circuit really need to see 70% to close the contractor or am I reading that wrong in that picture I posted earlier?

 

so, 4.5 hours to get from 2XXV to >330V... that's a pretty bad sign. That's 1.6Ah out of 6.5Ah rated with blocks at a very high resting voltage, i.e., battery appears to be very nearly full with only 1.6Ah input. On that basis, your battery is at 1.6/6.5 = 25% State of Health.

State of charge is computed based on:

votlage
temperature
current

The 60% is likely an arbitrary value set when the system is reset. The ONLY way the car will report a valid SoC is if the battery computer is energized and monitoring the incoming current, the block voltages and the temperature literally counting the current coming in through a hall effect sensor.

The jump assist requires elevated 12V voltage. If you don't have at least 40A charger on the 12V, it won't work...

Now for the $6 million question...

Are you 1000% certain the safety plug is installed correctly with the the handle slid into the locked position?

 

[QUOTE=S Keith;277906]so, 4.5 hours to get from 2XXV to >330V... that's a pretty bad sign. That's 1.6Ah out of 6.5Ah rated with blocks at a very high resting voltage, i.e., battery appears to be very nearly full with only 1.6Ah input. On that basis, your battery is at 1.6/6.5 = 25% State of Health.

It took less than an hour to get up to 330V, and then it held there. In total it was on the power supply for probably 14 hour, but I'm guessing you are telling me the battery is like bad. I am 1000% sure the safety plug is secure in it's locked down position.

 

[QUOTE=Wolk3n;277907]Probably. It may or may not be the reason it won't start, but it's not long for this Earth. What are all your current DTC?

 

I'll double check again tonight and let you know.

​​​​​​When I try jump assist I was getting an antilock brake code a p1B05 and p1B06 and a 4th code I can't remember right now, it's written down at home. I think I figured out a cover was off or something though and those stopped coming up. We are going to try again tonight with a vehicle hooked up to it as I don't think the chargers I have available were up to the task. I'll let you know how that goes. I'm prepared to buy a battery but I would like to have it start to make sure the engine and transmission work before I put money into the battery.

 

To be clear... Reported HV battery voltage and block voltages indicate there is not a voltage issue with the battery. It does NOT need the jump assist.

 

Ok, Do you have any suggestions on what I can check or do as a next step? The 60% vs 70% State of charge data I showed above seems to be the reason the isolation contactors won't close and provide power to the starter as far as I can tell and I don't know how to overcome that unless the battery is just bad and needs to be replaced despite holding voltage.

 

In operation, it's pretty rare for the battery to be above 60% Soc - usually closer to the low 50% range. Again, the only way to get SoC 70% is to actually put charge in with the car on counting the current. The jump function may do that, but I really doubt it. To my knowledge, there is no SoC based rule for latching the relay.

"Contactor sys reqd ckt command (%)"
Unless you have a reference to confirm that the above refers to 70% SoC, I don't see it that way.

Recommend:
Full code check
Clear codes
Attempt start
Full code check