Hey folks.

So I got a used battery (as i shared in my previous thread) and a 2008 Honda civic.

Once i got the battery, i simply put it in and used it because school was busy. Over a long weekend and the week following i did the 3 grid charging and discharging cycles. Full disclosure I discharged to too much (and too fast perhaps) the first 2 times.

Following this, the car worked fine. Then I flushed the cvt fluid myself, and did the second change at a mechanics just today and realized i put in too little (i did just the 3 litres) fluid the first time (i saw that something was off and it only saw about 15 km of driving when i realized)

Now battery has been grid charged, transmission fluid flushed (did not do a 3rd flush because of what the fluid looked like to my mechanic, it was indeed much redder as shown in another post here)

I am Getting codes P1575 and P0AE1, IMA light, check engine light, and 12v light.

After the first cvt fluid change, I thought this was happening because I didn't tighten the drain plug properly (thought fluid was leaking, and transmission was not being cooled and lubricated properly), when i had the fluid drained today, turns out it was perfectly fine. The ima assist would stop sometimes, but on restarting the car it would be fine. But when braking, it would not charge until braking quite hard, which i attributed to the fluid leaking, but was likely because I had not poured in enough cvt fluid. I made the rookie mistake of not letting the car run for a while and checking the level again.

The ima is currently not working, and i have charged the 12v battery to 95% capacity and the 12v battery light comes back on after a while, so im guessing that's just because of electronics running.

On the app im using (car scanner for Android) P1575 reads as "pedal position out of self test range"

And P0AE1 reads as "hybrid battery pre charge contacter - circuit malfunction"

I am currently researching, but any thing glaringly obvious? Or a clear answer?

Thanks in advance! (I should just really say thank you in advance Keith :p)

Edit: its 2 degrees C here, after letting the car warm up a bit, and restarting it for the 6th time, ima and 12v light are gone. Codes persist. I will update after a quick drive.

Edit: driving perfectly fine now but the codes persist. Wat is happening o_O

 

Without a code clear or a 12V disconnect for 2 minutes, codes will persist.

P1575 is MCM malfunction
P0AE1 is indeed bypass contactor malfunction

If those two occur together, P1575 is ignored until P0AE1 is resolved.

Attempt 12V disconnect for 2 minutes, reconnect, start and let car idle until it stops force-charging the battery.

 

Hey Keith,

So this worked great for 2 weeks, but ima light, check engine light, and 12v battery light on again, and just the P0AE1 code now.

12v battery light persists despite charging the battery with a plug in charger to 100%.

Disconnecting 12v battery does nothing.

After grid charging, the red switch you have to hold down to turn the battery power back on was stuck in the down position from accidentally holding it there while mounting.

I'm wondering if a fuse might have blown?

This car's too much a hassle for a full time student. As much as I love tinkering I can't be caught trying to fix it with an algorithms assignment due. Once I have it running properly im getting rid of it.

 

Since you have two batteries, swap out the contactors.

 

Oh good idea. Thank you will try that.

 

Hey S Keith, hope you've been well.

​​​​​​Im only getting about 8L/100km or 30mpg and that doesn't seem right even for city driving.

Im going to wire up a harness for the grid charger i built so that i can just charge through the trunk or back seat.

I understand i can't just give the fan 12v,and need a pwm fan controller. Would something like this do the trick? If not any recommendations?


Im going to send wires to the trunk (if conveniently possible) that i can clip onto my grid charger using some type of connectors, wiring for fan, and seperate wires for discharging with lightbulbs. Any others solution for discharging thst would be more effective/but just as cheap or not too much more than using high power light bulbs before switching to lower power ones?

Thanks again.

 

30 mpg is horrifying. Either you drive like a psychotic moron, or your IMA battery is completely shot.

What codes are you getting?

Doubt it. That's basically for computer fans, and if you can make it work electronically, I doubt it will handle the 10-20X higher current the HCH fan requires.

Did you resolve your P0AE1?

 

Can confirm I don't drive like a psychotic moron haha.

any recommendations for how to drive the fan then. ie a specific device or component you recommend.

I resolved P0AE1 and all codes, after replacing the contractors.I am getting no codes other than B125, which I understand is a maintenance reminder to B = oil filter change 1 = rotate 2 = air & pollen filters 5= coolant service. I

triple flushed transmission, checked, its bright red. flushed oil after running sea foam for 200kms. running winter tires, which im guess add to the poor mileage, but shouldn't by that much.

I think I might pursue the ebay seller that sold me the battery and try to return it. I got it back in September and doubt it will work out though.

 

So, no codes?

B125 is the maintenance minder... not codes.

Winter tires AND cold weather can have a devastating effect on mileage, particularly if you're making short trips. Between the two, I wouldn't be surprised if you take an 8mpg hit. That would put you at 38mpg, which would be pretty typical for better conditions and LRR tires.

If you DON'T have codes, AND you DON'T have recalibrations where it "marches" down:

, force charges and then "marches" back up as depicted in the video,

then you probably don't need grid charging.

Someone used to sell a fan controller on ebay, but I couldn't find it. Even if you find one, you will need a pretty beefy 8-10A 12V PSU to drive the fan at full speed.

Alternatively, you could leave the car with the ignition on with a 10A charger on the 12V and let the car cool the battery if it gets warm. Make sure all other accessories are off, and the car is otherwise physically secure.

 

No not having the recal issue.

I rest my trip and tried driving on a highway (20km) and got about 34mpg, and drove again in less stop and go (1km stretches between lights) city traffic (10km) and got 32mpg.

Taking off my winter tires in the next week or so. The all seasons i got with the car, 2 of em are worn, so ill get 2 used of the bridgestone ecopia ep422 you've recommended in other threads for drive wheels.

Never knew that was an option! That makes life way easier! I have a 10A 12v battery charger, and security cameras on my driveway! In a quite suburban neighborhood

One thing I wanted to run by you. The battery discharges pretty quick in city driving, ie will be bars in about 5km of driving. But i think that's just the nature of stop and go city driving + having a little climate control on.

Im going absolutely insane trying to study at home while being stuck at home social distancing, I could use something engaging for a couple hours. Think it might be a bad idea to do one grid charge and discharge cycle to see if it might make any improvements?

I think im going to sell the car in a month or so. My commute starting next fall is just 8km, might take the opportunity to have a fun car for a year. Thinking 06 wrx wagon :p

Thanks again. Gems like you in forum communities are really a blessing.